If your "BATTERY" light is on while your engine is running, then
the problem is usually either the alternator or the voltage regulator.
This simple test will help you figure out which, without having to
remove anything. It applies to 60's vintage GM cars using a points-style
voltage regulator. Here is a picture of that type of regulator.
With the engine running, connect the negative lead of your voltmeter to
ground (or the negative terminal on the battery) and the positive lead to
the #2 terminal of the voltage regulator. If the #2 terminal is hard
to get a good reading from, you can instead measure the voltage
on the black wire that is in the 2-wire connector on the back
of the alternator.
If the voltage is under 5 volts, then the alternator is bad. (Or the belt tension is way too loose.)
If the voltage is over 5 volts, the problem is either the regulator or the
wire harness between the regulator and the starter solenoid. Most likely it
is the regulator. Since the
regulator is so easy to remove, you should just pull it and take it in to be tested.
Anonymous
on Jul 21, 2008 at 02:04 p.m. said:
"Farmer test" While still running put screwdriver on back of alternator (watch out not to ground out terminals). If alt. is working it will stick, no sticky no worky. Get home, get it fixed.
Anonymous
on Nov 8, 2008 at 09:11 a.m. said:
Does this mean it is magnetic
Dogman2
on Mar 28, 2009 at 07:58 a.m. said:
The Alternator will create a magnetic field if it's is working properly. The Charge light, Battery light or simple red light is grounded by the regulator when the engine is not running and the key is in the "on" position. The light, Gen., alt., battery, etc. has a 12 volt supply from the Gauges fuse. The ground is replaced by voltage supplied by the alternator, once it starts charging. That additional 12 volt supply shuts off the light. Since there is no longer both ground and voltage, but two voltage supplies.